Telok Ayer Japanese Food: Omakase Counters Worth Sitting For

Telok Ayer has always been one of my favorite stretches in Singapore for authentic omakase experience. Over the last five years, I’ve watched this neighborhood transform from a casual drinking spot into a serious destination for Telok Ayer Japanese food lovers. I’ve probably eaten my way through more omakase counters here than my bank account would like to admit, testing everything from quick lunch sets to three-hour dinner marathons.

I created this list because “best” is subjective. Sometimes you want the theatrical, hush-hush reverence of a Michelin-starred counter, and other times you just want really good fish without needing to whisper. I’ve narrowed it down to three venues in and around Telok Ayer Street Singapore that I keep returning to, each for a completely different reason.

1. Shinrai: Casual Sushi Izakaya Dining by Chef Desmond Fong at 173 Telok Ayer Street

A variety of sushi rolls and Japanese appetizers served on a dark stone table in a modern restaurant featuring a neon samurai cat mural.

Lively, But Still Serious About the Food

Shinrai isn’t your typical silent, meditative omakase temple. Helmed by Chef Desmond Fong, formerly of Sushi Yujo, this vibrant sushi izakaya dining spot sits right on 173 Telok Ayer Street and blends a sushi bar with a modern izakaya sensibility. I included it because sometimes you want the quality of an omakase meal without the rigid formality. The retro-pop interior and lively space immediately put you at ease, and while the vibe is upbeat, the kitchen takes its ingredients seriously, presenting Japanese cuisine with a confident modern twist.

My first visit was actually by accident. I was looking for a place that wouldn’t frown upon a slightly louder group of friends, and I was genuinely impressed by how they handled their sushi and sashimi. The salmon carpaccio draped in rich truffle sauce was a standout, balancing earthiness with the natural fattiness of the salmon. I also loved the foie gras sushi featuring torch-seared foie gras over sweet scallops, and the indulgent Wagyu Foie Gras Don, which layers A5 Kagoshima wagyu, foie gras, and an onsen egg over fluffy pearl rice. It bridges traditional Japanese technique and modern comfort perfectly.

The Kind of Place You Can Actually Relax In

What I enjoy most about Shinrai is the lack of pretence. I can sit at the counter and watch Head Chef Haoey Cheah and his team work, or sit at a table and laugh loudly without getting side-eyed. Dishes like the Shinrai Signature Maki with torched salmon, grilled unagi, avocado, cucumber, tobiko, chicken floss, and miso sauce, along with the tsukune glazed in teriyaki sauce and paired with an onsen egg dip, make it ideal for sharing.

Add in seafood chawanmushi topped with crab meat and truffle caviar, or whole tiger prawns grilled with housemade mentaiko sauce, and it’s easy to see why I keep coming back. The menu also features a range of appetisers, salads, skewers, and desserts such as tofu cheesecake, all served with attention to flavour and presentation.

  • Nearest MRT: Telok Ayer (DT18), ~5-minute walk
  • Price: $$ (Lunch sets from ~$16.80; Dinner mains ~$20–$50+)
  • Best for:Casual nights out with friends or a lively date night where you want high-quality Japanese cuisine and a fun atmosphere.
  • Avoid if:You prefer a strictly traditional, silent, purist omakase experience.
  • Insider tip: Request a seat near the open kitchen to watch the chefs torch the aburi items, adding theatre especially when you order the Shinrai Signature Maki.

2. Sushi Sakuta: Refined Omakase Experience Near Telok Ayer

An empty, minimalist Omakase dining room featuring a clean light wood counter, beige chairs, and traditional Japanese slatted wood ceiling.

This Is Where I Go When It Actually Matters

Okay, so technically Sushi Sakuta has moved to Millenia Walk, just beyond the immediate Telok Ayer strip, but you cannot talk about the peak of Telok Ayer Japanese food without mentioning it. This is the heavyweight on the list. Chef Yoshio Sakuta brings a level of precision that is frankly intimidating in the best way possible.

I save this restaurant for milestones, not casual lunches or after-work meals with colleagues. Walking in, you are met with a 10-seat cypress wood counter, the faint hinoki scent immediately changing how you sit, how you speak, how you behave. This is not the place for lunch sets, skewers glazed in teriyaki sauce, or playful appetizers like salmon carpaccio with truffle sauce or seafood chawanmushi topped with crab meat and truffle caviar.

I Sit Down, And Everything Else Falls Away

During my last dinner, the highlight was a piece of Hokkaido Bafun uni from the higher-tier course. The uni was laid generously but neatly, warm rice beneath it, the contrast unforgettable. Courses were paired with premium sake, carefully chosen to move the meal along rather than overpower it.

There are no distractions here. No grilled unagi, no wagyu, no hot skewers, no onsen egg, no miso soup, no desserts like tofu cheesecake to soften the ending. What you get instead is focus. You sit at the counter, the chef places each piece in front of you, and you savour it while it is perfect.

  • Nearest MRT: Promenade (CC4/DT15) or Esplanade (CC3), ~5-10 min walk
  • Price:$$$$ ($350–$500++ per person)
  • Best for: Special occasions and refined palates seeking an authentic Tokyo-level sushi experience.
  • Avoid if: You want casual dining or have budget constraints.

3. Sushi Kawasemi: Traditional Aged Sushi Mastery in Telok Ayer

Luxury sushi bar interior with a long wooden counter, curved back chairs, warm ambient lighting, and elegant Japanese bamboo wall art.

When I Want to Taste the Technique

Sushi Kawasemi sits right in that sweet spot for me. In an area known for lively Telok Ayer Japanese food, from maki layered with avocado and cucumber, Kawasemi stands apart for one clear reason: its focus on jukusei, or fish ageing. Instead of chasing immediate freshness, the restaurant leans into using ageing to develop deeper umami and more expressive textures.

The counter here is intimate, about 14 seats, and my experience felt quietly educational. I remember being served an Aged Kinmedai (Golden Eye Snapper) that had been aged for several days. The texture was noticeably softer, almost creamy, and the flavour was deeply savoury, without the metallic edge you sometimes get from very fresh fish. It challenged my assumptions about what “fresh” sushi should taste like and reminded me that sashimi and nigiri can be just as much about patience as precision.

It’s Not Flashy — And That’s Exactly Why I Like It

What I appreciate most is how Sushi Kawasemi delivers a serious Edomae experience without feeling stiff. The chefs use techniques like ichiyaboshi to intensify flavor, but there are no distractions here, no foie gras sushi, no truffle sauce, no skewers glazed in teriyaki sauce, and no indulgent desserts.

For me, it feels like a quiet favorite for cuisine geeks, diners who would rather talk about ageing curves and texture than be seen at the trendiest table in Telok Ayer.

  • Nearest MRT: Telok Ayer (DT18), ~5-7 min walk
  • Price: $$$ (Lunch $98–$248++; Dinner ~$268+)Best for: Traditionalists and those curious about aged sushi techniques.
  • Avoid if: You prefer the texture of ultra-fresh fish.

The Counter Changes You

There’s something about sitting at a sushi counter that slows you down. You notice how the chef shapes the rice, how quickly a piece should be eaten, how temperature affects flavour. Over time, I realised that omakase isn’t just about expensive fish, it’s about attention.

Telok Ayer gave me different ways to learn that lesson. In one place, I learned that Japanese food can be lively and social without sacrificing quality. In another, I learned to sit straighter and speak softer. And in a quieter corner, I learned that ageing fish can reveal more than immediate freshness ever could.

Maybe that’s why this stretch means more to me than just a collection of restaurants. It charts the evolution of how I eat.

Why Telok Ayer Is Still My Go-To for Japanese Food

Close-up of a sushi chef’s hands preparing fresh tuna nigiri at a wooden sushi counter next to a glass of tea and chopsticks.

Telok Ayer has evolved into such a diverse corridor for Japanese cuisine that narrowing it down to just three spots was tough, but I stand by these picks. Between casual sushi izakaya dining at Shinrai on Telok Ayer Street, the high-end omakase precision of Sakuta, and the quietly cerebral experience at Kawasemi, this stretch represents the full range of Telok Ayer Japanese food. With chefs like Chef Desmond Fong and Head Chef Haoey Cheah shaping the scene, it’s easy to see why diners keep returning, whether for playful sushi or serious Edomae craftsmanship.

Depending on my mood, I rotate between indulgence and restraint. Some days it’s Shinrai, ordering foie gras sushi, salmon carpaccio with truffle caviar, or whole tiger prawns glazed in housemade mentaiko sauce, paired with premium sake and finished with a tofu cheesecake. Other days like Fridays, I lean toward something quieter and more technical. If you’re new to Telok Ayer Street Singapore, I’d suggest starting with a lunch set at Shinrai or Kawasemi before committing to a full omakase dinner.

For those looking to explore beyond this neighborhood, 3 Best Omakase Singapore Places Beyond the Obvious Names 2025 Edition offers a wider look at counters across the city where similar values continue to guide the experience.