A restaurant’s return after a year long hiatus is always met with a mix of high expectation and quiet apprehension. For those who held the previous Sushi Kimura at Palais Renaissance in high regard, the news of its reopening was significant. After spending 12 years searching and finally found the perfect location that fulfilled his wish list of requirements, Chef Tomoo Kimura’s eponymous sushi restaurant is now situated within the grander footprint of the Conrad Singapore Orchard. This review assesses what has changed, what remains, and for whom this refined omakase experience is truly intended.
Arrival and Setting at Conrad Singapore Orchard
Finding the new restaurant within the sprawling Conrad Singapore Orchard hotel lobby feels like discovering a secret. A heavy wooden door separates the hotel’s bustle from a sanctuary of calm. The immediate impression is one of intense focus. The decision to have just eight counter seats is the most defining feature of the space. It is a deliberate choice for intimacy, instantly setting it apart from larger dining rooms. The limited seating allows for personalized attention to each guest.
As a sole owner, Chef Tomoo Kimura has clearly obsessed over creating the perfect space. The best layout is clean and uncluttered, with a cypress counter that feels both ancient and new. The restaurant has a total area of 650 square feet. While guests won’t see the technical details, the investment in a proper exhaust and grease trap, a costly investment not always prioritized outside of large-scale Chinese and French restaurants, speaks to a no-compromise approach. The kitchen also features a specially ordered, top-of-the-line rice cooker from Japan that is compatible with Singapore’s voltage specifications. This isn’t just about aesthetics; it is about creating an environment where the focus is purely on the food and the interaction. The small scale promises a level of personalized attention that is simply not possible in a larger setting.
The Omakase Flow: A Singular Vision
Dining at the new Sushi Kimura Restaurant is an exercise in trust. There are no two or three menus to consider; there is just one fixed menu. This singular approach is a statement of confidence from the chef, immediately clarifying the nature of the evening. You are here to receive his story of the seasons, not to build your own adventure.
The pacing is measured and deliberate, a rhythm set by the chefs cooking behind the counter. The meal flows seamlessly from cooked appetizers (otsumami) to the final sushi sequence. The experience is not only sushi; it’s a full narrative. A course of steamed abalone might be followed by a clear soup, each dish a logical progression from the last. The transitions are smooth, with new plates appearing at just the right moment, many crafted by a Japanese potter friend of the chef, a detail that adds a layer of personal history to the meal. The entire flow is orchestrated to guide the diner’s palate, a hallmark of high-level omakase.
Execution at the Counter: The Core of the Sushi Kimura Experience
A Michelin star sets a high bar for execution, and this is where Sushi Kimura truly delivers. The chef’s expertise, honed over more than 28 years in the culinary field, is evident in every detail, from the rice to the final brush of soy.
The shari (sushi rice) is exceptional. Sourced from Yamagata Prefecture, it is cooked using smart processes that ensure each grain is distinct yet cohesive. The rice is cultivated in limited quantities by a renowned organic farmer, and the wasabi used is grown at the base of Mount Fuji, both contributing to the restaurant’s commitment to rare, premium ingredients. Served at body temperature, it provides the perfect foil for the fish. This attention to the foundation, something Chef Kimura honed during his time in three michelin star restaurants, is his strongest point compared to many peers.
Fish sourcing is impeccable. Chef Kimura sources produce directly from farmers and fishermen in Japan, including rare ingredients, often with the help of longtime friends whose relationships go back generations ago. He leverages his many relationships with the most famous fishermen in Japan, whose families have been in the trade for family generations. This results in product of stunning quality. A piece of white fish caught via the traditional way of spear hunting showcases a purity of flavor that net-caught fish often lacks. The freshest abalone, served with a sauce from its own liver, is a masterclass in texture and umami.
Seasoning is restrained and precise. Each piece of sushi arrives fully formed; it includes wasabi and a delicate glaze of nikiri. There is no need for additional soy sauce. Standout ingredients, like the rare new atsuba aosa seaweed from Akita Prefecture, a type of freshwater seaweed, or the house-made smoked radish pickles from an organic farmer who grows organic radishes in very limited quantities, demonstrate a commitment to unique, high-quality components. These are not just new toys; they are integral parts of a carefully constructed flavor profile. Kimura has added new ingredients to his offerings after spending a year traveling and cooking at events.
As the sole owner, Chef Kimura no longer has to answer to business partners about profit margins, giving him greater flexibility and independence in managing the restaurant.
Signature dishes at Sushi Kimura include Akami Zuke nigiri, abalone simmered in sake, and fresh yuba.
Hospitality and Counter Dynamics
With only three chefs for eight guests, Chef Kimura and two junior chefs, the ratio is luxurious. This setup helps reduce staffing costs, allowing for a more sustainable operation. Sushi Kimura Plus is designed to provide a more intimate dining experience with only eight counter seats, and is an ultra-intimate eight-seat restaurant located at Conrad Singapore Orchard. The decision to operate with fewer seats directly translates into a superior guest experience. You are not just a face in the crowd; you are an active participant.
Chef Kimura is an engaging host. He explains the origin of each dish without being pedantic, sharing stories of his artist friend or the best organic farmer with quiet pride. This dynamic is a world away from the silent, almost severe atmosphere of some purist sushi-ya. While the even junior chefs are focused on tasks like cooking rice, the open kitchen allows you to observe the craft up close. The environment is collegial, not hierarchical.
Positioning and Perspective: From Palais Renaissance to Today
The previous restaurant at Palais Renaissance was excellent, but the new iteration at the Conrad Singapore Orchard feels more focused and mature. It is a distillation of what made the original great, now in a space that better reflects the chef’s uncompromising standards. While the location has changed, the core philosophy remains. He has resisted the urge to expand into a large venue with so many chefs, understanding that doing so would dilute the experience and likely necessitate passing costs from higher overheads onto the guest.
Nearby, one might find a concept like Gyu Bar, but Kimura’s focus remains singular. He is not trying to be everything to everyone. This is a sushi restaurant for the connoisseur who values substance and sourcing over spectacle. As Kimura mused in a CNA Luxury feature, it’s about control, over the ingredients, the environment, and the final experience.
The addition of Sushi Kimura Plus, an adjacent space helmed by different chefs from his team, is a clever solution to the demand created by the main counter’s exclusivity. It allows the brand to grow organically without compromising the integrity of the flagship experience.
Closing Assessment: Who is Sushi Kimura For?
Sushi Kimura is for the diner who has moved past the need for theatricality and seeks a deeper, more personal connection to their food. It is best suited for those who appreciate the subtle details: the temperature of the rice, the story behind the pottery, and the profound difference that ethical sourcing makes. If your idea of a great meal involves a quiet, educational dialogue with a master craftsman and an appreciation for ingredients in their purest form, you will find this experience deeply rewarding.
This is not a restaurant for those seeking a loud, social atmosphere or a menu with endless choices. It is a place of restraint, where every element has been considered and refined over a year long hiatus. The experience at Sushi Kimura is a testament to the belief that with limited quantities of the finest ingredients and the unwavering focus of a true artisan, a simple meal can become something truly exceptional.
For readers seeking broader context on chef-led dining in Singapore, Omakase Singapore:Your Starting Point for Every Style, Budget, and Occasion provides helpful insights into how omakase menus differ in pace, style, and occasion.
